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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.